Archive for October 15th, 2007

>Litchfield & Kakadu National Parks

>Sydney has the Opera House. Melbourne the ecclectic european feel know for good restaurants and nights out as well as being close to the Great Ocean road. Adelaide is used all but as a hub between Melbourne, Perth or Alice Springs. Cairns the Barrier Reef. And Darwin? Well, Darwin has some spectacular national parks and a tropical climate to match. Two of these national parks are Litchfield and Kakadu, with other smaller parks around such as the Mary River National park.

Day one (Litchfield) Florence falls; Buley rock pools; Mary River Cruise

Day one of this 3 day tour we headed for Litchfield. Situated only 1.5 hours drive away from Darwin it is within easy reach. Stopping in a place named Rum Jungle, so called apparently after a consignment of Rum broke down near by. Instead of fixing the cart and delivering the Rum the couriers spent several days taking full advantage of their cargo. Not sure how much truth is in this story, but it’s a colourful way to name a town.

After our break here we headed for the rock pools of Florence Waterfall. Here There are eight freshwater pools to basque in and cool off, surrounded by stunning fauna and trees, providing pockets of shade to seek refuge from the cloudless sky and thus the intense rays of the sun. From here we headed 10 minutes up the road to Buley pluge pool. Part of the same system as the Florence Falls, it offers a bigger body of water in which to relax with more great views of the surrounding landscape.

Towards the afternoon we head to the Mary River for a 2 hour cruise in one of the many billabongs, in search of ‘Salties’ and ‘Freshies’ – the two Crocodiles that inhabit this region. We were not dissapointed either. These animals are as intimidating as they are magestic when taking to the water.

Camp for the night was near a former arbatoire, just outside Kakadu National park. Our entertainment was a lightshow from nature; the build up to the wet season which is upon the ‘Top End’. Then at 4:30am the fruits of the earlier lightshow bore with a very tropical storm and yet more lightening. At one point it was as if nature had turned on the light.

Day two (Kakadu) Jim Jim falls; Ubirr rock art; Arnhem land corssing; view over kakadu out to Arnhem land; Arnhem escarpment.

Day two begun with the scent of a post-storm blow out. Cooler after the rain the air was still heaving with moisture. We left camp heading for Ubirr, where traditional Aboriginee rock art can be found in abundance. On route we made a stop at one of the crossings in to Arnhem Land, a large piece of land handed back to the indigenous people in the 70’s (?). To enter a permit must be obtained from the Aboriginal people who now own the land.

Reaching the rock art some of the art depicts first encounters with European settlers, one with a man smoking a pipe – I kid you not! A short walk up some rocks brings you to what feels like the top of Kakadu. With views out over the wetlands to oneside and Arnhem land border the other, it affords some of the most spectacular views over Kakadu.

Leaving behind Ubirr we head for Jim Jim falls, a jewel of Kakadu and another opportunity to take advantage of a huge freshwater pool to cool off. To get there requires a 4×4, following the Arnham escarpment for the most part. From the car park there is about a 40 minute walk to reach the pool. Surrounded by towering walls of rockface at least a hundred meters high, and circular in shape it is an idylic spot to chill out and once again take in the marvels of its making.

The night was spent at a resort – a free upgrade couresty of our Guide, Al, so we’d be near the mornings offerings of Kakadu – Barrimundi Gorge.

Day three (Kakadu) Barrimundi Gorge

Day three and Barrimundi rock pool/water fall. At every rock pool and waterfall from Florence to Jim Jim you think you have found your piece of paradise, but still there is something more to amaze you. Barrimundi, whilst not as big as Buley or Jim Jim (least not the pools which are designated safe for swimming!), are perched atop a cliff face overlooking a much larger pool below. A series of 3 pools, the larger of which has its own mini gorge up which you can swim and find a small yet beautiful and very much so relaxing waterfall as you sit beneath its endless flowing fresh-water; a hydro-therapy pool at its best and in style.

Three days gives only the taste of some of the best Litchfield and kakadu have to offer. It is entirely possible to spend weeks exploring their bodies and discovering the souls. A treasure that offers amazing views in all seasons, sometimes temporarily taking away some of its attractions in the wet season to re-reveal them in the dry as the water recedes, in all their glory and more.

And thus concludes 13 days of touring from Adelaide to Darwin, travesing this vast country from its southern border via the centre to its north. I am here for another week owing to my loss of time and booking my onward flight a week later than I intended. Not to worry. Not all is lost. Whilst I am here there is still much to do, and many friends who left Adelaide some time ago to catch up with.

>Alice – Darwin

>Perhaps I too hasty to judge Alice, with an already gloomy impression of the town from reading and talking with friends, but one good thing from the stop there was time to catch up on sleep in relative comfort, for day one of the tour was another early start. The tour from Alice to Darwin was always going to be long. Three days to cover circa 1500km.

Day one took in Barrow Creek (telegraph station with a history), Wycliffe Well – the UFO centre of Oz, Newcastle waters (Drover History). Barrow creek was built in 1873, one of many telegraph stations stretching from Adelaide to Darwin, a move to establish the first commnication network with the Indonesia and of course the rest of the world. The route north from Adelaide was surveyed by a John Stewart, hence the name of the highway which runs from Adelaide to Darwin. Relations between the indigenous Aboriginal population and the ‘new settlers’ were often strained, and at barrow creek they were no different. It is said to be the place of many ugly encounters between the two very different cultures. What can be seen as a major step forward in the settling of Australia by Europeans, it helped strenghen the divide between indigenous and European culture, and serve to erode away that of the Aborignee.

Our overnight at Bunka Bunka, another permanent campsite of Adventure Tours. Here some of us followed the sign for the ‘waterhole’, 2km down a dirt track. Looking forward to a refreshing swim we were greeted by the most unappealing ‘waterhole’ I’ve had the please of seeing signposted. It wasn’t all bad, and it is understandable why it would be almost devoid of any large body of water. We did get to watch the sun set over Bunka Bunka and the walk was good.

Day two Bunka Bunka to Katherine via daly waters (pub and first international airport in Oz), mataranka (springs). Recent history in the Norther Teritory has been marked by devistation, no more so than darwin during WWII. Coming here was the first I have ever heard of Australia being directly targeted – 63 times no less! To defend against such attacks the infrastructure around Darwin and the ‘Top end’ was built up to repell them. Daly Waters was one such town established as an airforce base, later becoming the first international airport in Australia, being a hub for flights from singapore to Sydney. It’s a quaint and quirky place and seemingly a backpacker mecca. You are encouraged to leave behind thongs (flip-flops to us Brits), underwear or anything else for that matter to leave your mark on this remote yet very popular place. Not far from Daly waters is a fresh spring, Mataranka, established during WWII as a retreat for officers. The water is crystal clear and tepid, refreshing given the heat. This is all the place where they filmed the movie ‘We of the never never’, a film I can’t say I know too much about (google it :p), but it is one of hardship of early settlers.

Day Three took in Katherine gorge. My morning started with a brisk 15 minute helicopter flight over Katherine taking in 8 or so of the gorge’s that meander across the landscape. This was followed by 2 hours or so of canoeing in the main gorge, with time to take a dip in the second. Next we drove on to Edith falls for lunch and another swim. Once again we were greated by stunning scenary and crystal clear, tepid water. One further stop at Adelaide River for refreshments and fuel, we arrived at our destination, Darwin.

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